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Turning Inward: Notes from the Minho

Trail Dispatch No. 3 from the Camino de Santiago

A two-photo diptych along the Camino de Santiago: on the left, a grove of tall eucalyptus trees reaching toward an overcast Portuguese sky; on the right, a freshly caught fish hanging from a tripod of branches in riverside grass along the Minho River.
Springtime scenes of birth and death along the Minho River.

My Time


with the ocean has, as all times must, come to an end, and I have turned my journey inward up the Minho River. Many changes came because of this. Average local age decreases. A new time zone I have found. Hills. Humidity. And the sun shining, finally, across my other cheek. For a moment on the coastal portion, I was worried that I might return to the US split in half by only one tanned side. Not the least of these changes in turning my journey inwards has been in literally turning my journey inwards.


Many I have met so far come from Faith traditions of noticeable variance, just like the front yard decorum that I walk past. There has been vineyard statue Catholicism, spray paint Nihilism, and garden fountain Buddhism, all somehow perfectly fitting to their location on the path. But the people I've met that walk alone are all on the same journey within—a spirit, bringing a body from Porto to Santiago because it knows there is more to the world than just one body. I believe in the power that exists in the oneness of all these journeys, and I know that some others do too. Others that have lived it in their smiles to me at cafes today or others long ago who have built it into statues like this one of the Peregrino, The one pilgrim who is all of the pilgrims that have walked to Santiago, that ever will. 


A weathered stone statue of the Peregrino, the pilgrim, holding a staff and wearing a wide-brimmed traditional hat. Colorful ribbons, painted stones, and small offerings left by passing pilgrims are gathered at the base of the statue.

He is with hat, and a satchel. And a beautiful stave. He walks the long way to Santiago. 

This man reminds me a lot of the old Chinese poem I recently read and will close with, whose English translation was first popularized by Dwight Goddard in the late 19th century. I do not know its original author but if you do, reach out, and I would love to know!


It struck me especially last night, as I took my one night hike under gorgeous brightness floating down from the universe and walked across the Portuguese border into Spain, beginning a new leg of my trip:


Oh for this one rare occurrence

Gladly would I give ten thousand pieces of gold!

A hat is on my head, a bundle on my back,

And my staff, the refreshing breeze and the full moon.


Translation popularized by Dwight Goddard, late 19th century. Original author unknown.


-Payton




Editor's outro

Payton is walking the Camino de Santiago for three weeks in exchange for trail dispatches. New entries appear every Tuesday and Friday. If his reflections resonate with you, you may want to explore our nature-informed practice training, where we teach clinicians to bring this kind of slow attention into their therapeutic work.


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