Payton's third dispatch from the Camino. He leaves the Atlantic, follows the Minho River inland, and crosses the border into Spain by moonlight. A reflection on the many faiths along the trail, the one pilgrim who is all pilgrims, and a small Chinese poem about a hat, a bundle, and a staff.

A small village passed Payton by on the trail. On one farmhouse, in painted Portuguese tiles, a poem about joy. His second dispatch from the Camino de Santiago is an ode to the Atlantic that has walked beside him for a week, and a question for the rest of us: what brought you joy today?